Cut, Color, Carat & Clarity The 4Cs are used throughout the world to classify the rarity of diamonds. Diamonds with the combination of the highest 4Cs ratings are rarer, and consequently more expensive. Light is the element that ignites a diamond's brilliance and fire. Its interplay with each of the 4Cs will help explain why one diamond can appear more beautiful than another.
Cut is the only one of the 4Cs of diamonds that is influenced by the human hand. The rest (color, clarity and carat) are created naturally as diamonds form in the earth. At Forever we ensure that the most ideal cut diamonds are used, so that the facets when arranged in precise proportions maximize brilliance and sparkle.
Cut - refers to angles and proportions of a diamond.
Color - refers to the degree to which a diamond is colorless.
Carat - refers to the weight of a diamond.
Clarity - refers to the presence of inclusions in a diamond.
Type of Stone Settings Whether you're choosing a diamond solitaire, a ring with a number of stones, or an open-work lattice ring in which the diamonds flow along the lines of the setting, the way the stones are held in the setting is an integral part of its design.
Each setting technique creates a look that is part of the overall style of the ring. You may like one ring rather than another simply because of the setting technique used.
The different types of setting are
Prong Settings
A prong setting is the one most often used to hold a solitaire. A prong setting puts the emphasis on the diamond and not the metal supporting it. The purpose of any setting is to hold the diamonds securely in the mounting and at the same time allow light to enter the diamonds for maximum brilliance.
This is obviously a delicate balancing act. The more metal used to hold the stone, the more secure they are; the less metal used, the greater the chance for the stone to reflect light. Very thin wires of gold or platinum (the prongs) are used to hold the stone securely in place.
In such a setting, the prongs are attached to the central setting of a ring, known as the head or basket. Each prong extends upward and outward from the head, arching over the stone to form a secure grip.
The prong setting can also be found in a few variations. One such variation, called the V-prong setting, functions on the same basic concept, but it uses prongs which, when viewed from above, appear to be curved into a V-shape. The right angle of the wire is cut to allow the corner of the gem to rest and be held by the wire.
V-prongs are generally used for diamond shapes with points - such as the corners of the square Princess Cut or the tip of the pear shaped diamond. The v-prong provides additional protection to the points which are often thin, fragile, and subject to chipping if left exposed.
Another variation on the prong setting is called the common prong. Here, the metal wire is grooved at the top, and is used to hold two gemstones by their side (girdle). This technique is used to give a close side-by-side gemstone relationship without the metallic interference of too many prongs.
Bezel Setting
A bezel setting is a collar of precious metal that wraps around the stone.
The bezel is attached to the top of the ring and stands up above it, adding height and another dimension to the setting. Although solid bezels have a very traditional look, the bezel may be 'split' into two sections, arcing around just part of the diamond. This is called a half bezel.
This simple change suddenly opens up the setting and gives it a totally modern look. The technique may also be used on a fancy cut diamond - with an arc of precious metal around the wide curve of a pear shape and another, V-shaped section of precious metal embracing the narrow end.
Channel Setting
Channel setting offers a sleek, elegant appearance, though the end result is a very different look. Channel setting is also used to set round diamonds.
Setting round diamonds into channels leaves small spaces closest to the metal bars of the channel. By choosing round diamonds, the designer creates a clean line of stones, yet one with greater brilliance than is possible with baguettes. This also offers a less restrained look, and may be more suitable when a ring has a round center stone.
Channel setting is also used when there is no center stone at all.
Channel setting protects the stone extremely well. None of the edges are exposed, and so they are not subject to hard knocks or general wear and tear.
Pave Setting When the surface of a ring appears to be covered with tiny diamonds, the technique is called Pave which means paved. It's an apt name because the surface looks like a very pretty street paved with cobblestones.
Tiny stones are placed in small holes that have been drilled out of the ring shank. On a band that does not taper across the top, each stone should be exactly the same size. The stones are placed in rows, but in such a way that they fill as much of the space of the surface as is possible without actually touching. The more precisely the stones are
cut, the better the final appearance of the ring.
Each tiny stone, weighing just a few points, is fully cut with 58 facets. Though small in size, each stone contributes to the overall, shimmering look of the design. After it is positioned in its hole, tiny bits of metal from the surface of the shank are pushed over the edge of the stone, forming tiny beads to hold the stone in place.
Pave is a demanding technique that is most successfully accomplished in the hands of a patient and extremely talented jeweller.
Bead Setting
The same beading technique may be used on a ring in which the stones are spaced slightly apart. In this instance the gold work is much more of a statement and a design element.
These beads, larger and more prominent, may be engraved or decorated. The stones may also be slightly larger in size. By varying the size of the stones and the size of the beadwork, the designer creates a totally different look.
Cluster Setting
The cluster setting is another variation on the theme of choosing a ring with a number of smaller stones. There are cluster rings with the stones arranged in the form of a stylized flower, or those done as an abstract arrangement of stones.
Cluster rings are usually multi-level, with considerable height above the hand. The arrangement of stones can be quite open and airy looking, or it may be more tightly arranged. The choice is a matter of taste, but the shape of the finger can also play a role in making that choice.
Remember that the openwork design lengthens the look of the finger and the hand, while the more closed design draws the eye toward the hand.
Flush Setting
The flush setting is one of the most subtle diamond-setting techniques. Stones are sunk into the mounting until they are nearly level or flush with the surface. Only the table of the stone and a bit of the upper pavilion facets show.
This technique seems to go against everything we know about diamonds in relation to light, but it becomes quite a popular setting. It's a very subtle look, and one that appeals to the woman who likes the idea of tiny, glittering bits of light twinkling like stars in the sky.
The flush setting is also used for larger stones, offering great protection and a modern look.
Ballerina Setting
One of the classic multi-stone ring designs, the ballerina, derives its beauty from the placement of tapered baguettes which flow around a center stone to form a 'tutu', that short flared skirt worn by ballet dancers. There are ballerina rings in which baguettes are set in an undulating curve that literally emulates the tutu skirt of a dancer.
